Wine of the Month: Valtellina from Mamete Prevostini
The Region:
VALTELLINA IS THE LARGEST TERRACED VINERY IN NORTHERN ITALY. The yield per hectare is very low, the grapes are largely harvested manually on the sometimes very steep slopes. Nebbiolo is cultivated at a height of between 300 and 700 metres above sea level. Modest rainfall, hot summers and a great difference between daytime and night time temperature in the Autumn all contribute to the alpine Nebbiolo’s character, body and delicacy, as well giving it potential to be developed further. |
Situated in the Rhaetian Alps, about 100 kilometers (60 miles) northeast of Milan, Valtellina is the quintessential mountain wine region. The valley runs almost perfectly eastwest, following the course of the Adda river which has scored its path through the hard granite here over many millennia. This is one of Italy's most dramatic wine landscapes, matching the mountainous scenery of Alto Adige and the sheer cliff faces of Cinque Terre and the Costa d'Amalfi. Here, near Italy's border with Switzerland, peaks such as the 3678 meter (12,066ft) Monte Disgrazia cast their long shadows over the vineyards below. If grapes are to ripen fully here, they must be planted on sunny south-facing slopes, ideally with a westerly aspect.
Most Valtellina vineyards sit at altitudes between 230 and 765 meters (750 - 2500ft), on perilously steep slopes such as those over the Alps in Valais. This makes grape harvesting a time-consuming and costly task, as the incline of many vineyards is so pronounced that mechanized harvesting is impossible. Carrying out viticultural labor by hand accounts for roughly 1400 man hours per hectare per year, making the price of Valtellina wines sometimes as steep as the slopes themselves. Some of the steeper slopes, belonging to vignerons with finances to spare, have had small teleferiche (cableways) installed. This not only simplifies the harvest process but also speeds it up, minimizing the risk of grape spoilage.
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The Grape:
Nebbiolo aka Chiavenasca
Nebbiolo grape, called in the area Chiavennasca, produces the most sophisticated red wines in Italy.
The light-colored wines are characterized by large amounts of acidity and tannin, which typically require many years of bottle aging to balance and integrate.
Despite their power, nebbiolo-based wines are never dense, jammy or distinctly fruity. Showcasing powerful aromas redolent of red cherries, roses and truffles, they also have notes of eucalyptus, violets, pine needle, herbs, mushrooms and cinnamon spice. As the wines age, they take on darker notes of tar, tobacco, leather and earth.
Name origin. The name nebbiolo is derived from the Italian word for fog, nebbia. The grape’s fog association could be derived from one of two possibilities: the fog that typically settles over the area of the Langhe in October or the characteristic white-colored coating that appears on the skin of the grape late in the growing season.
Nebbiolo grape, called in the area Chiavennasca, produces the most sophisticated red wines in Italy.
The light-colored wines are characterized by large amounts of acidity and tannin, which typically require many years of bottle aging to balance and integrate.
Despite their power, nebbiolo-based wines are never dense, jammy or distinctly fruity. Showcasing powerful aromas redolent of red cherries, roses and truffles, they also have notes of eucalyptus, violets, pine needle, herbs, mushrooms and cinnamon spice. As the wines age, they take on darker notes of tar, tobacco, leather and earth.
Name origin. The name nebbiolo is derived from the Italian word for fog, nebbia. The grape’s fog association could be derived from one of two possibilities: the fog that typically settles over the area of the Langhe in October or the characteristic white-colored coating that appears on the skin of the grape late in the growing season.
The Winery:
Mamete Prevostini
The Prevostini family have been producing wine on the terraced slopes of Valtellina since the mid-1940s. The family had long owned an historic restaurant in Sondrio at the gateway to the Valtellina in far northern Italy, in the foothills of the Dolomites in Lombardy, for which they made some house wines from the local Nebbiolo (here called Chiavennasca) and reserve wines made from the famous villages of the secluded Valtellina: Sassella, Grumello and Inferno. The grandfather, Mamete, made wine from local grapes for his restaurant customers, taking advantage of crotti, the natural caves found throughout the region and which provide ideal cellar conditions. This eventually grew into a separate business, today run by winemaker and grandson Mamete Prevostini, who has become renowned for the silky, elegant Nebbioli he has been producing on his own since 1995.
They capture the perfumed, silky-textured character of Nebbiolo with great transparency, and are among the most sophisticated wines we have tasted from the region. Mamete himself is a dedicated ambassador for the region, as President of the Consorzio. He recently completed construction of a brand new cellar located in the heart of the Valtellina. The location adjacent to the vineyards is not only picturesque, but also allows the grapes to make just a quick trip from vineyard to tank during harvest. Additionally, the cellar was built to be 100% carbon neutral. A favorite of Eric Asimov of the New York Times, the wines are mentioned every year in his articles on “alternative” Nebbioli, and their Valtellina Superiore Sassella was named the number one wine in a panel convened in March of 2014, reconfirmed in a February 2016 article in which two wines were in the top ten, ahead of some very popular neighboring producers
The Prevostini family have been producing wine on the terraced slopes of Valtellina since the mid-1940s. The family had long owned an historic restaurant in Sondrio at the gateway to the Valtellina in far northern Italy, in the foothills of the Dolomites in Lombardy, for which they made some house wines from the local Nebbiolo (here called Chiavennasca) and reserve wines made from the famous villages of the secluded Valtellina: Sassella, Grumello and Inferno. The grandfather, Mamete, made wine from local grapes for his restaurant customers, taking advantage of crotti, the natural caves found throughout the region and which provide ideal cellar conditions. This eventually grew into a separate business, today run by winemaker and grandson Mamete Prevostini, who has become renowned for the silky, elegant Nebbioli he has been producing on his own since 1995.
They capture the perfumed, silky-textured character of Nebbiolo with great transparency, and are among the most sophisticated wines we have tasted from the region. Mamete himself is a dedicated ambassador for the region, as President of the Consorzio. He recently completed construction of a brand new cellar located in the heart of the Valtellina. The location adjacent to the vineyards is not only picturesque, but also allows the grapes to make just a quick trip from vineyard to tank during harvest. Additionally, the cellar was built to be 100% carbon neutral. A favorite of Eric Asimov of the New York Times, the wines are mentioned every year in his articles on “alternative” Nebbioli, and their Valtellina Superiore Sassella was named the number one wine in a panel convened in March of 2014, reconfirmed in a February 2016 article in which two wines were in the top ten, ahead of some very popular neighboring producers
Mamete Prevostini - Rosso di Valtellina "Santa Rita" DOC 2016 Bright ruby red color of discreet transparency Fragrant and fruity scents of fresh berries followed by aromas of fresh flowers such as roses and violets In the mouth the taste is pleasantly dry, confirming it a wine with a good body Category: Red, Dry, Still Grapes: 100% Nebbiolo Alcohol: 13% Awards: 2012 - Wine Spectator: 86 points 2011 - Luca Gardini: 86 points 2010- Wine Spectator: 85 points 2009- Wine Spectator: 88 points |
$75.00 |